By Huidrom Sushila
IMPHAL, June 10: With changing times, the traditional dress of the state has lost its sheen and originality.
In pursuing the global trend of changing one’s wardrobe, the traditional Manipuri dresses have lost its original design and patterns.
Speaking to IFP on this regard, Manipuri culture collector and Director of Mutua Museum Mutua Bahadur said, today’s youth have forgotten their roots and are blindly following the others.
“What was considered ominous in the past has now become a fashion rage”.
He said, “The Mapan yaodabi Phanek (borderless wraparound) were not normally worn by anyone other than the widows in the past, however, in today’s society, even young girls are seen wearing such phaneks (wraparound)”.
Citing the hook form motif of the Phaneks as an example, he said that in the past, motifs on a phanek used to have its own special meaning.
The hook motif was to protect the wearer from the insects, he said.
Nahong clothes used to carry babies behind a mother’s back-also used to carry such hook motifs, however nowadays such motifs are not found in Nahongs as they come in plain colour now a days.
The belief was that the hook motif used in the nahongs would ward off any physical deformities in the child.
He said the Khamen Chatpa clothe was only used by the kings of the land or through his sanction, however nowadays, we see people wearing them as scarfs and during Thabal Chongbas.
He further continued that the Kamen chatpa was called Khamu Chappa named after a plant.
The colouring of the cloth was used to be done through tie and dye in the past however now a days it is also printed.
He has also applied for patent rights of Wangkhei phi, Moirang Phijin, Saphi Lanphi under the geographical indications of the goods (Registration and Protection) Act 1999.
His application is under process since December 2011.
He further urged the concerned department of the state to chalk out ways to promote handloom products and appealed for a separate handloom policy as a way of promoting and safeguarding the handloom products of the state.
Urging the government to consider introduction of Manipuri cultural studies in the curriculum of the schools, colleges and universities to save the Manipuri culture, he said such practices are patronize in the all other states of the country.
Meanwhile, when IFP asked a few individuals on the change in patterns of Phanek motifs, they replied that they have been made to change the motifs due to unavailability and prices of the original motifs.
They said that the original motifs are not easily available today so they are made to do with the designs which are available easily on compulsion.
GI act of traditional phanek needs serious concern in this present globalisation and age of internet before someone else steals our techniques and style and call it theirs. I see some northeast states keeping and eye on meitei phanek in media and entertainment.